Click here for these newsletters >>
October 1999 through February 2000
titles:
How does the builder deal with a crooked log?
Opportunities for saving money when designing and building your dream log home.
Where do I start and where do I go from there? Part 1.
How much does a log home cost?
Click here for these newsletters >> March
2000 through August 2000
titles: Where do I start and where do
I go from there? Part 2.
A sad but true story.
Where do I start and where do I go from there? Part 3.
Why is it Important to use an
Experienced Log Builder.
New at the B and H Cedar Log Homes' web site.
September 2000 through February 2001
titles: Comparing Kit Prices Quoted by
Different Manufacturers or Dealers.
Log Homes and Energy Efficiency.
So Now Its Winter and Your Kit is On the Way!
Fasteners for Log Walls.
Roof Systems.
So You Want to Do it Yourself!
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for the newsletters.
Click here for these newsletters >> March
2001 to the present
titles: Delivery of Your Log Home
Kit.
Where can I find, or how do I prepare,
a log home plan that fits my lifestyle?
The Carpenter Bee.
Bees, Builders and braggarts.
Windows.
What Can I Expect from my Log Home Dealer?
September 2000 - Comparing Kit Prices Quoted by Different Manufacturers or Dealers.
October 2000 - Log Homes and Energy Efficiency.
November 2000 - So Now Its Winter and Your Kit is On the Way!
December 2000 - Fasteners for Log Walls.
January 2001 - Roof Systems.
February 2001 - So You Want to Do it Yourself!
Subject: Comparing Kit Prices Quoted by Different Manufacturers or Dealers.
It is not unusual for a log home shopper to ask, "What number do I multiply a kit price by to get the approximate cost of the completed home?" The answer to that question differs with each manufacturer. Why is that? The answer begins with the logs, for example, Western Red Cedar Logs cost more than Pine logs and large logs cost more than small logs. But that is only the beginning and not even the most important consideration.
Comparing kit prices from one manufacturer to another is difficult because different manufacturers include different materials in their kits. Some include only the log wall system and the exposed beams and rafters. At the other end of the spectrum, are the weather tight kits that include all necessary standard construction lumber, plus windows, exterior doors and even the roof shingles. And then there is everything in between. In other words, there is no one answer to the original question.
So, how does the log home shopper price his/her dream log home? If the shopper is looking for a "turn key" price (construction price for a completed home by an experienced log builder) the kit cost is not a significant consideration. Given a set of construction drawings and the kit price, the log builder will price the completed home.
But today many log homes are built with the homeowner acting as the general contractor. In this case, the cost issue must be approached logically and patiently. If the kit includes only the basic log materials, perhaps the company will supply a list of materials needed to put the home under roof. If not, take the construction drawings to a local lumber yard and ask for a weather tight "materials take-off." Anticipating an order, most yards will do a take-off and price each item, all at no charge. This weather tight shell cost plus the kit cost can then be compared with the cost of more complete kits offered by other manufacturers.
But price in not the only consideration: How much is freight (Remember, there is no such thing as "free freight".)? How long has the manufacturer been in business? How long has the dealer been in business? How far is the dealer from the construction site? How much construction assistance is available? If you are purchasing a complete weather tight kit, is the entire package delivered at once? If the entire package is delivered at once, how long will the materials sit on the job site before they are used?
In summary, yes, building a log home requires more time and effort than purchasing an existing "stick" home in a subdivision. However, those of us who love log homes will carefully research all aspects of the project, thrill at the sight of the work in progress, and show our home with pride to anyone willing to listen - and even to a few who would rather be somewhere else.
As always, your comments and suggestions are welcome.
See you next month, SANDY HELMS
October 2000 - Log Homes and Energy Efficiency.
First, a recent experience that might save you really big bucks.
A local, independent lumber yard recently quoted a B and H customer $25,000 for 32 Andersen window units. I told our customer that for Andersen's, that did not sound out of line but encouraged them to also get a price from Lowes and/or Home Depot. Home Depot gave them an in-store quote of $22,500. But then the mill manger just happened to be nearby and noted that 32 units qualifies as a van load which could be shipped direct from the factory to the job site at a lower cost. Later that day, Home Depot called my customer and quoted $15,000!! Yes, that is fifteen thousand dollars. I still have trouble believing that is a realistic quote. If this quote changes I'll let you know in the next newsletter.
I will now contact two other customers who are each shopping for Andersens and each starting construction in the next few weeks. Individually, they do not need a van load but perhaps they can combine their orders and save those big bucks. Stay tuned.
-----------------------------------------------
B and H Cedar Log Homes Newsletter for October 2000.
Subject: Log Homes and Energy Efficiency.
Several years ago, the efficiency of log homes was a serious issue with building code officials around the nation. It was a frustrating situation for those of us who lived in log homes because we were confident that our homes were as energy efficient as our neighbor's stick home. The code officials and engineers were analyzing the performance of our house using the traditional "R" for logs. At the very best, "R"=9 for a 6" log, which compares unfavorably with an "R" of 19 for 6" of fiberglass insulation. Using this traditional technique, the log home always failed the test.
Finally, responding to pressure from the log home industry, the National Bureau of Standards constructed test homes and analyzed the energy consumption in side-by-side log and stick homes. The log home passed this "real world" test. As a result of the tests, the National Bureau of Standards accepted the log home industry's argument based on "thermal mass." In other words, once a log is heated (or cooled) it tends to stay heated (or cooled). It is now rare that the energy efficiency of a modern log home is questioned at any level.
Three final energy comments/observations:
- In my home county (Stafford, VA), all new homes must demonstrate an acceptable energy efficiency using a computer program approved by local officials. I am not aware of any log home that has been refused a building permit because it failed the analysis.
- Several years ago B and H sold a log home to a couple that chose electric base board heating (resistance heating) in an effort to keep the construction cost as low as possible. (Base board heating is perhaps the cheapest heating option if construction costs are the only factor; however, it is generally accepted as the most expensive to operate.) This couple also installed a wood stove in the basement and arranged the heating and air conditioning duct work so that heat from the stove could be distributed throughout the house. They say they have never used the base board heaters. That one wood stove has heated the entire 2,000 square foot home throughout every winter.
- My wife and I live in the B and H's 2,300 square foot model, "Sandy's Joy." We work out of this home so we are here around the clock. For the past two years, our combined electric and propane bills have averaged about $200 per month.
For a more in-depth discussion on energy efficiency and log homes, readers are encouraged to purchase "Log Homes Made Easy - Contracting and Building Your Own Log Home." This book is by far our surfers' most popular book and is so good that it is in it's second printing. To review and/or purchase the book click here. Yes, we do receive a small commission if you purchase the book but if you are serious about log homes, it is well worth the $15.25 price (plus shipping).
As always, your comments and questions are welcomed.
See you next month. SANDY HELMS
PS: If you have not yet found that perfect floor plan, visit Log-Home-Plans.Com.
November 2000 - Subject: So Now Its Winter and Your Kit is On the Way!
Generally speaking, when the log kit is delivered to the job site, the subfloor is in place and the builder immediately begins construction. Therefore, long term storage of the kit may not be a consideration. However, during bad weather the kit may remain on the job for several weeks before construction is complete. Proper storage of the beams and rafters is of more concern than the logs simply because the log walls go up first. If the kit remains on the job for a prolonged period of time before construction starts, the following precautions are recommended.
The objective of the precautions below is three-fold; first, to limit prolonged exposure to direct sunlight, second to allow for proper air circulation around each timber, and third to protect against precipitation.
Due to various weather conditions at each construction site around the country, it is not possible to state how long the kit can safely be stored without taking the precautions stated below. This is a judgment call that can only be made by the homeowner or contractor. However, if it is anticipated that materials are to remain on the job site for a month or more before use, B and H recommends that these precautions be taken within 72 hours after delivery.
-- Protection against direct sunlight: Failure to protect against direct sunlight will result in excessive warping and twisting during storage.
Protection of the top of the bundles is the priority. This can easily be accomplished by placing scrap lumber on top of the bundles. Strips must be placed between each bundle and the scrap lumber, as described below, to provide for proper air circulation within the bundles. Protection against precipitation, as described below, also protects against exposure to direct sunlight.
Protection of the sides of the bundles must not restrict airflow within the bundles. Leaning plywood or scrap lumber against the bundles will do the job.
-- Providing for proper ventilation: Failure to allow air to flow around each timber can result in mold growth. Should this occur, in most cases the mold can be removed by wiping with a mixture of Clorox and water.
Select a storage area that is "high and dry." If the kit is stored on muddy ground, rain storms will splatter mud on timbers. (Once splattered, only sanding at a later date will satisfactorily remove the stain.) Place 4x4's on the ground (better yet, use 6x6's) no more than 3' apart. Take extra care to assure these foundation timbers are level. Failure to level the timbers will cause timbers to warp.
To allow for proper air circulation, the bundles must be repacked on the above foundation with wood strips such as 1"x 2" furring strips between each layer of timbers. Be sure that the strips are "in line" vertically within the pack. When using scrap strips, be sure that all strips in the same layer are the same thickness. Place strips about three feet apart within a layer. Be sure to leave a space (about 1") between each timber within each layer. Taking these precautions will limit warping during storage.
-- Protection against precipitation: Excessive rain and snow on and within the bundles compromises your efforts to allow the timbers to ventilate and dry during storage.
Placing sheet metal, plywood or plastic on top of the bundles can best provide this protection. This cover material should be placed on strips, to allow for air circulation (not directly on the timbers) and weighted to hold in place on windy days. If plastic is used it should hang loosely down the sides otherwise airflow will be restricted within the bundles. Tightly covering the sides of the bundles is not recommended because this would restrict airflow within the bundles and trap moisture.
NEVER, repeat NEVER, encase the bundles in plastic for a prolonged period of time. This traps condensate within the bundles causing rapid deterioration of the timbers.
Finally, visit the site often and check on the condition of the protective coverings. Repair or replace as necessary.
See you again later this month.
Sandy Helms
December 2000 - Fasteners for Log Walls.
What's New at The B and H Web Site:
--- Visit http://www.cedar-log-homes.com/log_home_magazines.htm, aol users
<a href="http://www.cedar-log-homes.com/log_home_magazines.htm">Click here</a>, and you will find links to three of the log home industry's most popular magazines. Subscribe if you wish or purchase a copy from a local news stand.==============================================
B and H Cedar Log Homes Newsletter for December 2000.
Subject: Fasteners for Log Walls.
Our apologies for the late delivery of this December 2000 newsletter.
Perhaps we will catch up this month.The spiral nail or spike is the classical fastener for log wall systems.
This fastener is still widely used today and is very effective in pulling logs tightly together. While this is the cheapest fastener available, the man (or woman) on the other side of the 30 ounce hammer must be in great physical condition if the walls are to be constructed in a timely manner. When building with Cedar, pre-drilling is not necessary. However, when building with Pine, it may be easier and faster to pre-drill before driving the spikes.The other fastener that has been around forever is the lag bolt. This is generally considered the best fastener available to pull logs tightly together; however, extra steps are necessary when using the lag bolt. First, the top log must be counter sunk for the washer and head. Then the top log must be pre-drilled for the shank. Failure to counter sink will result in separation of the logs (for the "stack and build" system) as they shrink and the log walls settle. If pre-drilling for the shank extends into the bottom log, there may not be enough "bite" to pull the two logs together tightly. If pre-drilling does not go deep enough, there is the possibility that the lag bolt threads will actually prevent the logs from being drawn together. Practice makes perfect!
Then there is the popular, patented, OlyLog fastener. This is a thin, hardened, threaded fastener with a hex head. The advantages: 1) The OlyLog is thin; therefore, pre-drilling is not necessary. 2) It can be driven with a 1/2" heavy duty electric drill. 3) Only the first 2" or so are threaded; therefore, "thread separation" is not a concern. 4) The head countersinks itself. The disadvantage: Arguably, the OlyLog does not pull "stubborn" logs as tightly together as the spike or the lag.
So, which to use? B and H recommends the OlyLog as the fastener of choice for the majority of logs. However, we always ship 50 - 100 pounds of spikes and 100 - 150 lag bolts. If the OlyLog needs help in dealing with a stubborn log the builder can turn to a spike and/or a lag to finish the job.
What is the difference in cost? Each eight inch OlyLog or lag will cost about four times that of an eight inch spike. Using OlyLogs as the fastener of choice will add about $800 to the cost of a typical 2,000 square foot log home. Hopefully, when the log builder hears that he will be using the easier OlyLogs he will lower his bid accordingly. Hopefully!
We thank each of you for your subscription to this newsletter and hope you find it helpful. As always, your comments and suggestions are welcome.
Our very best to each of you in the year 2001.
SANDY HELMS
January 2001 - Roof Systems for Log Homes
There is nothing unique about the shingles or roofing materials for log homes. Any roofing material used for "stick" construction can also be used for log construction, e.g., fiberglass shingles, metal, cedar shakes, slate. Before making a final decision, make sure the selection is within your budget and that you fully understand the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Roof systems for both log and stick construction should be vented. Roofing materials can generate a lot of heat and, if the roofing material is to survive for its intended lifetime, this heat must be dissipated. Typically, this is accomplished with both soffit and ridge vents. These vents allow air flow under the roof sheathing; thus preventing heat build-up in the shingles (or other roofing material) and extending the life of the shingles. Make sure insect screens cover the vents and that insulation baffles are present to prevent insulation from blocking the soffit vents.
Styrofoam or stress skin panels are frequently used over great rooms in log homes. These panels offer the advantage of high "R" value (i.e., excellent insulation) and quick installation. However, if ventilation is to be provided, 1x2 stringers must be nailed to the panels (with the space between ventilated) with 1/2" roof sheathing and shingles on top of the stringers. B and H is aware that some log builders do not take this additional step to provide ventilation; however, we have not heard from anyone that has experience (good or not so good) with this unvented construction. If you have that experience and are willing to share it, we would love to hear from you.
Ice dams have occasionally been log home problems in the past. Ice dams occur when the heat from your home melts snow and ice on the roof. This run-off then refreezes when it reaches the roof overhang or soffit - which are longer than on most other homes. In time the ice buildup forms a dam, backing up water under the shingles above the attic space and, eventually, causing ceiling damage inside the home. A rather new product (a mat that is placed on the overhang prior to nailing shingles) is available to prevent such a problem. Make sure your roofer quotes this as part of his bid.
This discussion is not intended to answer all questions regarding roofs. Rather it is intended to address those problems rather unique to log homes. In the final analysis, the quality of the job is dependent on the experience and attention to detail by the subcontractor. As always, when selecting a contractor or subcontractor, check references and inspect previous work.
Until next month,
SANDY JOY
February 2001 - So You Want to Do it Yourself!
There are endless opportunities for the do-it-yourselfer to save money by contributing "sweat equity" during the construction of his/her log home. However, there are also endless opportunities for the do-it-yourselfer to get in trouble by contributing "sweat equity" during the construction of his/her log home.
At B and H we are frequently asked, "Is log home construction difficult." Our standard answer goes something like this, "No, it is not difficult if you take the time to educate yourself on the construction techniques and you fully understand the magnitude of the job you are contemplating." After a momentary pause, the next question is usually something like this, "Well, surely I can save money helping the builder by working as a carpenter or acting as a subcontractor on the electrical or drywall, etc., etc." And our reply, "Have a seat."
Most log home shoppers quickly realize that they do not have the time, and usually not the skills, to construct the complete home themselves. However, the possibility of saving money on a smaller scale is more appealing. Following are typical log home shopper questions and our replies to each:
-- Shopper: Can I work as a helper and save money on the home? B and H: Maybe, but if you can afford to purchase a log home surely your time is worth more than you will save working at the hourly rate as an inexperienced helper.
-- Shopper: Can I save money acting as an electrical or drywall or paint or floor covering, etc. subcontractor? B and H: Maybe, but will the quality of your work be as good or timely as a professional's?
-- Shopper: I have a friend/relative that wired (plumbed, painted, shingled, etc., etc.) his home. Can I have him do that work rather than the subcontractor selected by the general contractor? B and H: DEFINITELY NOT RECOMMENDED WHEN YOU ARE PAYING FOR A TURN KEY JOB!! If you are acting as the general contractor and you are confident of your friend/relative's skills and availability, then go for it.
-- Shopper: Can I move into the home before the home is finished and then finish it at my own pace? B and H: Talk to your local code officials to determine how far along you must be before they will give you an occupancy permit. Also, talk to your lender and determine how far along you must be before they will close on your permanent financing.
At B and H we see three major problem areas rarely apparent to a log home shopper eager to invest sweat equity..
1. Quality of workmanship - As an inexperienced carpenter, electrician, plumber, etc., will the quality of his/her work be as good as a professional's?
2. Timeliness - A typical construction loan must be renegotiated after six months if the home is not finished. This renegotiations will cost additional money, and, interest rates on construction loans are higher than the rates for permanent financing. If the log homeowner does not have the necessary time to invest in sweat equity or if he/she works too slow, money saved on the job site can be reduced or even lost at the bank.
3. Division of responsibility - If the homeowner is acting as the general contractor, this is not a problem. If the homeowner is paying for a turn key job, this is potentially the biggest problem. Any delay attributable to the homeowner, whether real or perceived, can result in disputes, delays and additional costs. It is a wise general contractor who declines a job when the homeowner insists on contributing sweat equity.
See you next month,
SANDY HELMS
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